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With cycle on border land



        Belarus this is interesting and beautiful country, inhabited by attractive and friendly people. In this about 4% Poles. This country unites us with such figures as: Adam Mickievich, Eliza Ozeskova, Tadeush Kosciushko, he really know about it very little. Charm of Belarus adds certainly fact that tourism so-called "commercial", is here weakly developed. It creates large possibilities to potential tourist of proof own inventiveness.
Idea of trip on Belarus originated after my first last year's contact with this country. Little mobility of translocating oneself through Belarus, caused not very often plying public communication, pushed an idea on a cycle. Route of riding became appointed already in October 2001 of year. However from strongly objective reasons the route was changed several days before expedition. And looked as below:

Map of rout from bicycle expedition through belarus

day 1

Terespol, Brest, Zabinka (distance 73 km)

   Early morning we get out from train of account Stettin - Terespol. A little time occupies us research of fortifications, situated a little outside the town. Met local tells us about bunkers in bushes. Humph... they are not surely such a great touristic attraction, when with difficulty to them to hit own mark. In spite of that are already very near, we resign from further researches and we towards to Terespol centre. Here we do little purchases and we go towards to passage terminal Terespol - Brzesc. On passage pretty big problems from exceeding of border on cycles, simultaneously we arouse general interest. All attentively oneself look us, and people from touristic buses show oneself us by fingers. after over 2-hour's confusion and testing of competence of customs Belarussian officers and Polish ones, we pack up with cycles to touristic bus, which transports us 100 of metres for terminal barrier, where we get out. For me problems from crossing border on cycles are completely not intelligible. So, here on the east are other rules;). To Brest we reach already on cycles. We exchange a little values and we go to view Brest Fortress. Through the way we tour Railway Museum. Enough interesting, powerful exhibits of great engines. Guide abundantly comments history of every engine. From reason on weak understanding, we become detached from small groups and the rest of exposition we look severally. A little early we go out. At exit surprised woman proposes us guide in Polish. For us however already will suffice. We go several hundred metres farther to view monumental Fortress Brest. This is powerful complex of fortifications overground and underground, from charming Orthodox church in the centre. Already at entry on ground of fortress greets us big star (fitting as fist to nose) and some propagandist singing from loud-speakers placed near at hand at entry. After look round the fortress we go to the centre in research the old city. Unfortunately there is lack style of houses here and other of interesting monuments. We decide to go on Kobryn. At a trip from the city we losted a little, not being able to find proper ways. After about 2 hours of circulation we left on so-called "red track", towards to Kobryn. Way enough comfortable with not large side-space, but car traffic large. Way at times reminds highway. after a dozen or so kilometres constabular point of road - inspection. By shelter stands constable in cap with wide little roof. Attentively looks at us and I had impression, that has readiness to stop us. Hand with lollipop lightly vacillates, however leaves us in calm (perhaps thought, that we do not speak in his language; -). On heights Zabinka we turn left. A little before Zabinka by hamlet Zdzitlava over charming brook Muchaviec river we find very nice and quiet place on bivouacking. By nobody troubled we break camp.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 2

Zabinka, Kobryn, Drahichyn (distance 92 km)

   From the morning we go towards to Zabinka, not getting to it, near at hand behind bridge we strand right in way broken stone and we go towards to Kobryn. What some time we ride downhill from main road and we go with charming paths near at hand over Muchaviec river (strange, that does not have here traced touristic track yet). after some time we get to Kobryn. We do here midday pause, and in local restaurant we eat dinner. Bicycles guards us young girl from alimentary shop near at restaurant. Kobryn does not appear to be interesting town, we do not find here any monuments (except patriotic monuments in most attractive points of the city). We move farther in side of Pinsk, with main road. After about 25 kilometres we ride downhill from "red track" in way on Haradziec side where we do short halt. Behind the hamlet we go farther by comfortable, little traffic way in side of Drahichyn. Goes calmly, we cross each other fields, meadows, forests, of cars "as on medicine". After several hours we get to Drahichyn, where we seek night's lodging. Of course we find it quickly in local gastinica. Quickly humours spoilt us woman from reception desk enumerating on calculator price for night's lodging: 18 $ for person. After short negotiations we fix price 15 $ for two persons (unofficial). We leave things and we go to a "centre", which is situated near shop active 24/h. Town hopelessly uninteresting. Old flying in pieces cottages, poultry-houses, here and there sounds of young pigs. With social evening we look to our room and... consternation. Terrible dirt, frowst, not working television set, (this just least I was sorry) and in cranes cold water. Just nothing. Bath, supper and to "pellet".

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 3

Drahichyn, Ivanava, Dubaj, Pinsk (distance 95 km)

   In the morning we go towards to Lipniki. After some kilometres, near at entrance on main road in side of Pinsk we did short halt. Constable from nearby shelters of road - inspection, told me that I cannot film (??). After short conversation everythig is OK. Approaches second constable, some time we speak, they look at our cycles, attentively looking to meters. After several minutes we take leave and we move farther through a "red track" in side of Pinsk. After 14 km machine gun. we strand on Ivanava and still on a "yellow track" on Brodnica and Dubaj. Unfortunately way until Dubaj proves with hopeless pavement (with broken stone hump-backed). Rather instructed to avoid this way. Somewhere near the Dubaj I replace oneself 4 burst spokes. Behind Dubaj way already comfortable, (with enough decent asphalt) which we get to Pinsk. In Pinsk we visit a church, to which care oneself Polish nuns. From them we get bearingses on night's lodging in Polish family. A little far to the centre of the city, but by cycle - near. We find address quickly, leave baggages and we return to the centre old city. Here is a beautiful church, quite a lot nice, pre-war houses (unfortunately enough neglected), and not very developed boulevard over Prypec river. In the evening city is depopulated. Even does not have where oneself to drink some coffe, or beer. But potential places on this of type locals - much. In the city are excellent circumstances to development of tourism, perhaps once somebody this will use it. After making purchases we return on lodging. Here in evening we speak long with Viktor (son of owner - recently baked with graduate of some economy of Polish college). Near midnight we go to sleep.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 4

Pinsk, Lahichyn, Gancevicy (distance 101 km)

   From Pinsk we go towards to the north, in side of locality of Lahiczyn. Until viaduct of road Homel - Brest. On the way much traffic and goes oneself little pleasantly. behind viaduct cars considerably less. Slowly begins beautiful Paleskie's sceneries. In Lahichyn we do short halt at nice old church. Near at by it equally nice Orthodox church. In Lahiczyn we strand on Gancevicy. Most beautiful route. Goes oneself calmly, on comfortable equal asphalt among beautiful Paleskie's forests. Of cars "as on medicine". Recent, pine air. Before hamlet Bobryk crowd of people marching on street arouses excites our interest. which one Pilgrimage, whether what? Two kilometres farther all becomes clear. Bus bungled and everybody politely go farther on foot. In nearby hamlet we visit some farm, where treat us second breakfast. Some time we speak to farmer, after that we move farther. On the way we get commercial of cucumbers and of cherry-tree. Near at behind hamlet we stop on midday rest in charming place over brook Bobryk river. Here we rest surely to 16. After that we move on Ganceviche. Through the way several beautiful hamlets - skansen museums yet, till with pleasure to have a look. With social evening we get to Ganceviche. Nearby the lake we break tents.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 5

Gancevicy, Klecko, Niasviz (distance 70 km)

   From early morning we leave Gancevicy, going towards to Niasviz side. Day enough windy and makes difficult drive a little. In Klecko we do longer midday pause. We eat a dinner in a local canteen, after which a few hours' nap on some bench, in shadow of tree. In Klecko is some museum, which even we do not try to run in. After the rest we move on Niasviz. Behind Klecko the way begins a little to take a fold. More and more greater differentiation of ground and unfortunately, wind all the time in face. After getting to Niasviz proves, that in local gostinica there is lack free rooms (seemingly room it is necessary to reserve by phone several days earlier), so we begin to seek night's lodging. Met on the street a woman drives us to one's own familiar on lodging. Here quarters already 3 Poles (grandfather with daughter and with granddaughter). We leave baggages and we go to tour the city. Radzivill's Palace - unfortunately inaccessible for tourists. Just is passed general repair, after which it will be a government - building of president Lukaszenko. We look at palace from outside, a neighbouring lake, a park and a church. We go round a little to the centre, we do purchases and we return on lodging. Here housewife treats us with supper, during of which we tolk with housewife and with quartering Poles here. They propose us excursion motor coach after neighbouring cities. Have several free places in a bus. However we refuse. So route this excursions is covered with our bicycle route. Again a little late we go to sleep.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 6

Niasviz, Mir, Svitaz lake (distance 88 km)

   With morning after breakfast made by delightful housewife we move to Mir. Unfortunately oddly consists, that wind again in face: -(. Ground more and more hummocky. Will surrender to feel beginning Uplands Navahrodek's. After some time we reach Mir. Here a lot of changes in comparison to the last year (2001). does not have trace after scaffolding circle near castle. The castle seriously restored. Round it one paved nice way. In the casle student of history of some Minsk's college shows us the castle, and near chapel. On end drives us on dinner to canteen in of which board local workers at renovation of castle. In the centre of Mir yet worse. There isn't any bus stop already. Everywhere excavations, dust, noise and driving tipping-lorries, enlarging pollination. All work as tomorrow president Lukaszenko had to come for inspection ; -)( and perhaps had). As fast as possible we evacuated from Mir. We move in side of Vialkija Zuchavicy, from where we direct oneself on Cyran and farther on the lake Svitez. Way with sections broken stone and not very comfortable. Over Svitaz we break tents in forest, about 1 km machine gun from main beach, near at hand over bank cristalic clean lake. This is following charming place for bivouacking. With social evening charming sunset. What a romanticism ; -).

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 7

Svitaz lake, Navahrudak, Navaelnia (distance 82 km)

   From the morning (not very early) we roll up tents and we turn on Navahrudak. Mountainous way and unfortunately again there is the wind. In Navahrudok - longer halt. Sightseeing city, some dinner, and purchases. In Navahrudak nothing changed from last year. From Navahrudak we go on Navaelnia. Way is perfect. All the time from hill. This time wind favours us and all the time blows in back. Through the way nice prospects and what important - very little car movement. Before Navaelnia we strand right on Dziatlawa. After some kilometres we find nice camping site place over brook Moucadz river near the water power station.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 8

Navaelnia, Dziatlava, Masty, Shchara (distance 64 km)

   We roll up camp and we direct oneself on locality Dziatlava. In Dziatlava nice church and style old houses. At trip from city bazaar on which one can buy a little fruits. after about an hour's midday's break we direct oneself in side of Masty by Nakryski. Way in the first section asphalt - and enough comfortable. Farther unfortunately passes in broken stone, which does not go oneself so pleasantly. Through the way in some hamlet we get milk and we are stay on grass. After waiting worst of midday torrid heat we we move farther At last a little we took the wrong way and after about 20 kilometres hump-backed road in companionship of horse's flies, and of large hornets; we get to asphalt. After several kilometres we get to brooks Shchara river, over which we find ideal place on camp. We break tents near charming hamlet, of which at local farmer we buy milk and eggs and we provide oneself in water. We talk a little to farmer and we return to tents for supper. So, this is following charming camping site place with "climate". To this charming very little hamlet - Skansen museum. Only 5 houses.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 9

Shchara, Masty, Boupa, Lunna, Podbarany, Bohatyrevicy (distance 86 km)

   About 8 a.m. we roll up tents and we direct to Masty. In Masty halt and dinner in local canteen. After that proved, that even harmed (of what effects we felt of next day). From Masty we go in direction to locality Boupa. Before locality, over lake on left side, we do pause with midday nap. We lie down in shadow of pine not near a beach and we laze. behind Boupa we direct oneself right in direction to Skidal. Over Nieman river, in localities Lunna we strand left and we direct oneself on Podbarany. Through the way we hook up yet for tank with acid bread - and we go farther. Way more and more less distinct, passes in field-, after that drives somewhere by forest and other pathless tractses. In the sky behind back assemble large, dark, rainy clouds. I have bad presentiment. In finish we get to some asphalt. In nearby hamlet tells us, that to Bohatyrevicy about 3 km machine gun yet. After 500 metres begins to sprinkle. We stand up an old closed shop in next hamlet. Rain continually sprinkles. Moment of reflexion and decision - we dress short overcoats, we put bags and we go farther.... Ups. Rather we go by foot. My back circle lilac of airs: -(. To Bohatyrevicy in the course half an hour we will reach on foot. In lap time from fine rain became powerful downpour. Us surely already all the same. important only some dry corner on night to find. Some farmer going with ladderlike car, with most clearly not impressive downpour, surrenders us bearingses on night's lodging in Bohatyrevicy. Nice woman from advisable address begins us under roof of one's own house. Satisfied we change on dry second-hand article of dresses and we eat supper. During conversations shows, that we spend the night at oneself Bohatyrevice's descendants. Farmer speaks polish very well. First-class. With social evening we bathe in nearby Nieman river (unfortunately dirty water). In night dinner eaten in Masty began to give to know about oneself. Light poisoning ;-(.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

day 10

Bagatyrevicy, Svisloch, Grodna (distance 36 km had to be;))

    In the morning greets us beautiful sunny weather, however fatal frame of mind. Nothing wants oneself. I hang out wet things on bit of string between apple-trees I lie down oneself on carrimat in shadow of trees Lies oneself magnificently. About noon frame of mind gets better. I replace pierced air-chamber and 7 spokes (torn off surely somewhere on broken stone ways). Surely because so heavily me oneself went; -). Unfortunately 3 of spokes already lacked me. I have to go more carefully and perhaps some to Grodna I will get. We take leave with nice farmers and we direct oneself to main road on Grodno. Through the way we visit yet John's and Cecylia's grave and we move farther. Somewhere on field- way (this one was shortenings) rumble back tyres spoilt me humour. 5 kilometres to Svisloch we go on foot on "bowel". Near the alimentary shop, somewhere after about an hour of chats imitates us to clutch foot to Grodna. We pack cycles and go. Polite man gives us to the centre of Grodna, near at cathedral chair, even proposes, that will take uns to indicated address. Only harm it's, that we do not know it yet. We seek night's lodging. after longer efforts, somewhere near late afternoon something we find. Fast bath. we leave things and by trolley bus we go to the centre for small beer. Unfortunately in small locals here was nowhere free places. At last we buy beer and chicken from spit in shop and we land somewhere near castles. after 1. 00 we return on lodging.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here

day 11

Grodna - already only sightseeing (distance 0 km)

   In the morning I exchange pierced air-chamber, after that we go to tour Grodna. We do last purchases, trying to give all roubles and we buy ticket on return to Poland. Near 1.00 p.m. we pack up and we leave on station. A little oneself we are late on briefing, which already ended. However imitates us to go out for passages through closed already door and at last we head on train to Poland: -). Phew. Succeeded. We go to Poland.

Recapitulation of day in photographic shortening you will find here belarus

Expedition became realized in 101%. Weather was perfectly sunny and everything was cool.
Really I instruct.

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